Monday, May 21, 2012

Bandhs

This will not be a pretty post. It is time to write about the not-so-nice features of life in Nepal. The country is now in the midst of "bandh" or strike season. Bandh is the Nepali word for closed and that is exactly what happens during a bandh. Shops, schools, traffic and most commerce stops...causing hardship, financial suffering and inconvenience to most. The usual thugs take the opportunity to cause mischief by vandalizing cars or throwing rocks. The May 27 deadline for all parties to agree on a new constitution is fast approaching and it seems as though each concerned groups is trying to make a point. There are great difficulties in finding common ground in a country with 80 different ethnic groups and 100 different languages.  One proposal is to organize the country into states based on ethnicity....probably not a good idea.
However, it seems to me that something does in fact need to happen here. Government is supposed to provide basic infrastructure, right? Water, electricity, roads, sewers, education....
Water....my neighbors right outside my high brick walls still dip a bucket in the well outside my gate or some walk to the undeniably beautiful water fountains that were built hundreds of years ago. We have the luxury of having water delivered by a water truck, however, Hari, our cook, still boils the water to kill the critters. Deaths from typhoid and diarrhea are common.
Electricity....Nepal has the second highest hydroelectric power potential (after Brazil) in the world, yet for various reasons the power has not been developed appropriately. Here in Kathmandu, we are faced with daily load shedding which means we have no electricity for hours each day. This house has a generator so we pollute the neighborhood with the rumble, but at least our appliances can run. Other businesses do not have generators and it is difficult to be competitive in the 21st century without computers. Solar power is one answer here....
Roads...they are trying. Around Kathmandu some areas look like a bulldozer has just been through...except that all the demolishing has been done by men and a few women with sledge hammers. A move is underway to widen all streets and that means that all the brick walls that folks have built to shield their homes and yards from roads must be demolished. Once the walls are down road widening can begin....except that power poles sit in the way. I don't think I'll be here when all the power poles come down. Maybe they'll bury them underground. Once roads are wider then even more cars, buses, motorcycles and mini buses will be out.
There is only one rule for driving in Nepal "Don't touch." Rick would add "No driver eye contact." Then you don't need to yield.  Here the roads are a heart stopping ballet of darting and swerving drivers. Thankfully, the clogged traffic rarely allows a driver to move beyond second gear.
Sewers....look at the Bagmati river.
Education....they are trying, but literacy rate for women is at 25% while men have a rate of 50%. The goal is for 91% literacy by 2012.
The public water fountain in Durbar Square, Patan.

Waiting for the tap to begin to flow.

Ready to roar.

View from my car window. Pick a lane....

 Maybe I'm sounding grumpy, but this is really just a posting to remind myself and readers that even though this country is blessed with breathtaking mountains, rivers, valleys and wonderful people, there are significant issues to be solved.





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